25 August 2006 by WineNews Editorial Team
'Great White' Tasting 2006
South Africa’s second ever ‘Great White’ Tasting took place in Cape Town last week. The initiative of winemaker Ian Naudé, previously of Linton Park and Dornier and now producing his own brand Adoro, the tasting brought together six of the country’s most esteemed white blends and their makers as well as two foreign benchmarks and was aimed at exploring this niche category through discussion.
The line-up:
Mas d’en Compte 2004, Porrera – Priorat, Spain (£25-£30/bottle UK retail)
A warm climate blend consisting of 60% Grenache made from 100 year-old bush vines in north-eastern Spain; considered Spain’s ultimate white wine. Said to be warm, alcoholic and spirity/raisiny by some tasters.
Redoma Doura Reserva 2004 – Douro, Portugal
A warm climate blend of Portuguese varieties unknown here produced from old vines in the Douro Valley, Portugal; praised for its elegance and minerality at the tasting.
Flagstone Two Roads 2005 – South Africa
Flagstone’s icon white blend produced from six varieties grown in three regions: Stellenbosch, Elim and Swartberg (29% Sauvignon Blanc, 24% Chardonnay, 18% Weisser Riesling, 17% Pinot Blanc and 1% Morio Muscat).
Newton Johnson Pour mes Amis 2005 – Walker Bay, South Africa (R85/bottle)Newton Johnson’s experimental label, the 2005 produced from 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon grown in the Hemel en Aarde Valley and at Botriver. Total production: 40 cases.
Naudé White 2006 – South Africa
A Chenin Blanc-based (54%, plus 37% Semillon and 9% Sauvignon Blanc) blend with fruit from Durbanville, Stellenbosch, Elim and Malmesbury.
Sadie Family Palladius 2004 – Swartland, South Africa (R300/bottle)
A Mediterranean blend of Viognier (40%), Chenin Blanc (20%), Grenache Blanc (20%) and Chardonnay (20%) produced from fruit grown in Perderberg, Swartland. 5000 bottles.
Vergelegen White 2005 – Stellenbosch, South Africa (£20/bottle)
A Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend (67: 33) made in a classical Bordeaux style, produced from 16-17 year-old vines on the estate’s Schaapenberg and Korhaan vineyards. 500 cases.
Nico Vermeulen 2005 – Durbanville, South Africa (R55/bottle)
A Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon (74:26) blend made from fruit grown at Bloemendal and Diemersdal in Durbanville.
Across the Old World, Cornél Spies CWM said in introducing the line-up, continental terroirs generally produce exceptional single varietal wines whereas maritime growing areas lend themselves to blends with great complexity. Blending, Spies believes, is also South Africa’s solution to producing world-class white wines.
The bulk of the discussion subsequent to the tasting was focused around trade issues. Top-end white blends, it was agreed, could be regarded as a problematic category in the wine trade.
Salient points raised in this context were:
A hard sell
Premium white blends are a hand sell as the category is little known and understood by consumers. The category’s relative rarity and uniqueness count in its favour and offers the trade a sound and interesting pitch.
Made for food
Top-end white blends complement food in a way single-varietal whites arguably can’t. Blends are more complex in their flavour profiles, which makes the ‘great white’ category perfectly suited to the restaurant trade.
Local enthusiasts
Vergelegen’s marketing manager Eddie Turner remarked that the Vergelegen White is a far harder sell internationally than on home turf. Three-hundred of the five-hundred cases produced are snatched up by the local trade, Turner said.
Longevity
South African white blends generally are made to age well, which gives the category a unique position in the trade and another unique proposition to consumers.
Training/education
The training of sales and service staff in the unique characteristics of the category will prove instrumental in the furtherance and promotion thereof. The role of the wine media in educating consumers about the category and what it offers was emphasised.
Stylistic differences
The category includes wines made in two very distinct styles, namely Bordeaux and Mediterranean blends. Comparing the Vergelegen White and the Sadie Family Palladius is non-sensical, WINE Magazine’s Deputy Editor Christian Eedes remarked. However, Eedes emphasised, South Africa is incredibly diverse in viticultural terms and can confidently claim to produce both styles, equally well.
Niche
Ansgar Flaatten concluded the discussion by stating that 'great whites' are a niche category and should be promoted and pursued as such.
